my first clue that i was getting way too jaded was the day i landed in bangkok. it was a sunday and i wasn't going to be able to go to the indian embassy until the next day. i'd already seen many of the bangkok tourist sites, but that was actually many years ago on my first extended travels, so i figured it would be fun to meander around the city a bit. (despite being stiflingly hot and muggy) not far from khao san road (the [in]famous backpacker's haven in bangkok) i was approached by a friendly fellow. he explained that during the week he worked for TNT (thai national tourist organization), but on the weekends he enjoyed helping people out on his own time. [i think to myself, "hehe, yeah, sure!"] he was full of advice about which taxis to use and not use and about which wats [temples] he highly recommended. he was saying how very lucky that i was that i was here today as it's the last day of a national festival and this is the last day for many of the wats to be free admission. [reminded me of morocco where every day is the very-special-once-in-a-month-just-for-you-my-friend-market-day] i was a bit puzzled though as i couldn't really figure out his angle. i was waiting for him to drag me off to gem store and explain to me how his nephew, who's a student in the usa, is able to pay for his entire education by importing gems or to offer to guide me through one of the temples and then demand an exorbitant "donation". but he politely bid me farewell once he'd finished sharing his information and left me still scratching my head as to his real motivations. by the end of day i realized that it was indeed the last day of a festival with special markets, free public concerts, water fountain light shows, and, indeed, free admission to wats.

okay, now i'm in india. upon arriving in kolkata i made my way downtown by public bus and metro. (i've make it a point to boycott airport taxis when ever possible any place in the world, just on general principal) my second day i toured extensively by foot, ferry, and some amazingly overcrowded busses. quite fun though as i've usually found the experience of public transport in a foreign country as interesting as where i'm trying to get to.

now it's sunday. i'd wanted to see the kali temple in the morning (known for the sacrifice of hundreds of goats daily) before catching the train to bodhgaya in the afternoon. it would have been an easy metro ride from where i was staying, but i discover that on sundays the metro doesn't start running until 2pm. interesting, but okay, time to brave the kolkata taxis. it took three tries to find a taxi driver who seemed to understand where i wanted to go. (the first fellow, rather old with a deranged look on his face responded to my "kali temple?" query with "airport?") finally i find a pleasant looking young fellow who speaks english well and he flips on the meter without my even having to demand so. (in china for example, it's an endless battle to get taxi drivers to use their meter instead of pre-negotiating the fair to where you want to go, and if you do manage to succeed in getting him/her to use the meter, you just about guarantee the longest route taken, if not blatant circles around your destination)

anyways, this fellow is very nice. he tells me how he has a sister living in boston, and he spends much time telling me the history of the kali temple. when we reach our destination the meter reads 13.50 rp. (40rp = us$1) i had remembered reading that in kolkata there is a 20% surcharge on the taxi meter readings, but he explained that on the older taxis you have to add 120% and wanted 35rp. the meter was in fact a very antiquated looking mechanical device, but it sounded like such a ridiculous line that i told him "no way! you're just taking me for a dumb tourist!" he said we can go to any police station and ask. [sure, sure, typical intimidation tactic] i hand him 20rp and get out of the taxi. he gets out after me and insists that i just ask anybody. i firmly tell him i'm already paying him too much and adamantly walk away, not even looking back. i do poke my head into a nearby shop just to double check and i find out indeed on the older taxi meters you need to double first, then add 10%. oh shit! i run back looking for the fellow, but he's already gone. woops! now i feel terribly silly and guilty about completely stiffing this very nice young man. maybe it's time to stop assuming every friendly stranger you meet in a third-world country is trying to swindle you. (except in morocco, where i'd still recommend never trusting somebody who greets you with a "hello my friend"))