upon inquiring at one of the sudder street travel agents about how to get a train ticket to gaya, he explains that reserved seats on the morning express train are already sold out. i can either take the night train, or, if i don't mind taking a local train, there are several each day from the sealdah station, just go there and buy a ticket. that sounded perfect. will give me the chance to do a bit more sightseeing in kolkata and then taking the local train sounded fun. i knew the train all the way to delhi was about 18 hours, and gaya was only about 1/4 of the way, so it was guessing a 4 or 5 hour trip. when i got to the train station at 11:30, i find that there is a train leaving in just 10 minutes -- perfect! i queue up to buy my ticket and proceed to the departure track. wow, i can't even see the far end of the train and it's completely packed. i can't figure out how to read on my ticket which car i'm on. i ask a couple of times along the way and get waved further down to the "general compartment". i also spot an information booth and stop to find out when the train will arrive in gaya. 20:57. wow, 9+ hours, a bit longer than i'd guessed, but at least not _too_ late. as i'm finally getting toward the end of the train i see one car which doesn't look too extremely packed. i poke my head in, but am quickly whisked off as it's the "military compartment" but the gun toting, uniformed man politely shows me to the next car which is the "general compartment." wow (am i saying "wow" a lot?), i takes considerable effort, but i finally make it, with my pack, through the entrance way and about 3 feet into the cabin to a place to stand which i figure is as good a spot as any. okay, i think to myself, this should certainly at least be a memorable train ride. :o)

by the time the train finally departs quite a few more people have somehow managed to squeeze onboard as well. i feel fortunate when i have enough room to shuffle the positioning of my feet. room to squat on the floor isn't even an option, and besides, how could i possible sit while there are old ladies still standing. one hour into the train ride i'm wondering to myself how long i'll be able to endure this sardine can train ride in the suffocatingly muggy summer kolkata heat, as i'm dripping sweat on everybody around me. but i'm still hopeful that as we get further away from the city the crowd will eventually thin out. also the ride is certainly entertaining. i'm amazing how the food and drink vendors are able to manage their way through the cabins, which to my eye are already packed beyond physical capacity. some of the very agile ones cleverly monkey climb overhead along the luggage rack and sides of the upper level benches. as the train rolls on i' finding myself able to just enjoy the ride, slipping at times into a bit of meditative zone. feels a bit like a second wind during a marathon run. also the people are quite friendly, although perplexed that a foreigner would be silly enough to ride in the locals car. at one stop i hand out 10rp ($0.25) for some bananas and get back a bundle far larger than i expected. i distribute extras to people within reach and i am in turn offered some very tasty snacks.

despite my theory that the crowd would thin as we got further out, the train actually was gradually getting more and more packed. at this point i'm feeling lucky to have a place to stand inside and not hanging on to the outside of the car. by now there are also a number of people balanced from the luggage racks and even the very agile food vendors have given up trying to traverse the car. tempers are also growing a bit short as there are frequent heated altercations over i'm guessing things like stepped on toes. at one stop, at about hour four, i'm fascinated to see huge crowd attempting to board. there is a virtual battle at the doorway as the people already inside don't want to let anymore people in. (not that i thought it could have been physically possible anyways) the new borders win, and in the process i'm crushed out of the standing aisle way, and layered into laps against the window. even the remotest concept of "personal space" has ceased to exist long, long ago. but i'm at least able to enjoy a bit more fresh air now as well as being able to see more of the country side through the window. :) i'm eventually able maneuver so that my own weight is mostly on some luggage, although my own lap is still fully occupied with a pleasant young fellow and his very cute little brother. and i have to admit it does feel good to be sitting for a change.

in time, things do start to gradually thin out a bit. at one point i even have the luxury of sharing the edge of a real seat and i'm enjoying talking to the new friends i've made. finally we reach gaya. this actually turns out to be the most challenging aspect of the journey. getting off! there is another mob scene attempting to get onto the train without the slightest concern that it might be easier to let people get off first. i decide that this is not the right time for patience, as i certainly don't want to be crushed back in and stuck on the train until who knows where. it takes quite a physical effort, but i'm finally able to shove back the onslaught bags and suitcases being shoved forward over people heads with my own back and leverage my strength against the doorway to squeeze through the assault wow, fresh air again! as the adrenaline is still pumping through my body. i immediately down two thirst quenching cold sodas from a nearby vendor. i don't even consider trying to negotiate the 13km transport to bodhgaya at this point. i find my way to the $4 "hotel buddha" just a short walk from the train station, and i can't remember the last time a cold shower and hard cot felt so good. :0)